A Winter Wonderland

Something I wrote for Drift last month.

September sessions here in Cornwall are normally the best of the year but this year the surf was dire. Just when it seemed like it was going to be one of the worst Autumns I can remember, October turned up with the goods. The last three weeks has seen some epic sessions go down. From tow-in barrel seeking sessions in giant waves at Fistral to shoulder high peelers perfect for longboarding- there has been something for everyone. Many classic spots that lie dormant for much of the year have been working but with the mandatory crowd, if you keep your eyes open quiet sessions are found.

After three weeks of great waves, usual transmission has resumed. Howling westerly gales are forecast for the next week, the balmy late autumn temps are fading away and the dark nights have drawn in. Therefore, it looks like its time to batten down the hatches for winter. The changing seasons are a facet of nature as it evolves throughout the year so embracing it can help you to bond with and enjoy the environment around you. Winter offers you the chance to surf spots you can't the rest of the year (many of which are quality waves), spend stormy days seeking out that elusive spot you always heard about followed with a pint by an open fire, enjoy the lower crowd pressure and open space on land as well as in the water, expand your quiver to surf winters more powerful swells plus the dark nights can give you more time to work on projects or other interests you have and most importantly time to plan those winter trips. Whilst there are many positives from wintering in Cornwall I'll still be jetting off to the Philippines but only for a month- don't want to miss too many of those winter swells.

The Search...

Let me take you back to early Spring 2002, if my memory serves me correctly. I had timed a day off work to coincide with a good swell, only when the day and the swell arrived, so did the inevitable wind screaming out of the south west.
With the sky overhead heavy with dark grey cloud, I headed over to Harlyn Bay in an effort to find shelter and ferret out some good waves. But an oversight on my part was, when I arrived it was a super high tide and the swell I had awaited, unloaded onto the sand dunes in one long line, stretching across the beach.
Then it struck me even if there was not much logic to it, go to St Agnes. I had not been out West for a while, so out to the Badlands I headed. Pulling into Trevuance Cove car park the first signs of surf looked good, then looking down from the vantage point I could see the wind and tide had receded and wedging right-handers were peeling across the bay. Also due to it being midweek, midday and outside of the holidays it was uncrowded. What followed was a session more than worthy of a day off. On my last wave, once it had closed out, I rode prone towards the beach and paddling out was no other than the evergreen, Tom Curren.
I was later to learn Tommy was here on a euro promo tour for Realm and that this day was the best waves of the trip. I hung around and watched as Curren provided a master class in style, power and all round mastery of surfing. He drew uncluttered lines with perfect body English all over the waves and dissecting each section with manoeuvres performed with surgical precision. Video does not capture the moment like seeing it for yourself.
Tom Curren needs no introduction and you could right several pages at least, on his influence on modern surfing including his tutoring of a young Kelly Slater. But less is appreciated of his influence on post modern surfboard design.
In 1993 Tom Curren reappeared at an ASP event in France after an hiatus from competition. With him he brought a 1969 5’4” Rick Twin Fin he had purchased second hand in New Jersey. The then ranked 8th in the world, Matt Hoy drew Curren in the 2nd round, which was held in onshore slop. Curren destroyed Hoy with a combination of blazing speed and power house tail slides on his fish and all Hoy could say was “why did he have to do that to me”. Curren then accidently brings the fish back to the attention of the masses, by appearing in the Rip Curl Search film “Beyond The Boundaries” riding various fishes. Going on the Fish Hunt he rides a Skip Frye fish at J Bay and the infamous Tommy Peterson shaped 5’7” hybrid “Fireball Fish”(which had three fins) in giant Indo waves, all around 1994.
He also had a period in the early nineties experimenting with single fin boards made with the same dimensions of a standard thrusters which he can be seen riding in Litmus. Also the back to front vee to concave bottom shape that Rich Pavel uses on his now famous “Speed Dialler” is a product of a Curren and Maurice Cole experimental period in France. Cole was shaping Curren a gun for Curren and in his confusion he shaped the bottom contours back to front by mixing the tail up with the nose due to the pintail making both ends look the same, so the board had vee in the nose and concave in the tail rather than vice versa. Since he had shaped it, Cole had it glassed up and Curren loved it, then later Pavel adopted the design for his own experiments.
Also known for bodysurfing to avoid the crowds and cameras, making music and being reticent to the point of reclusiveness. Curren's holistic approach to surfing is one of function and his feeling for surfing, so it’s no surprise his eclectic approach kick started a design revival.

Indian Summers

Southwest France is famous for its late Indian Summers, with long hot days, surfing in boardies, morning offshores, early autumn swells and evenings spent sipping red wine, making it a perfect camping trip. For Alexa and I, it has been an annual habit, packing up the van in september and making the run down to Biarritz. Enjoying the sense of freedom from being on the open road.
Crossing the river Ardour from the Landes region to the north after the long drive down through France, the landscape begins to transform from a flat landscape dense with the famous pine tress to verdant hills, rolling inland across the hinterland towards the Pyrenees which rise steeply in the distance as if they are watching over this region. Cliffs, reefs, points and rocky headlands intersperse the coast creating a breathtaking coastline with a myriad of waves and offering options in a variety conditions. This variety suits us and we pack our quiver accordingly- fishes, single fins, shortboards and longboards all crammed in the van. Whether its mellow peeling Basque beach breaks and reefs, grinding Hossegor or Anglet barrels, big drops at Guethary or the reeling point of Lafetania, there is something for everyone - a smorgasboard of surfing delights.
Only a short drive inland the Pyrenees offer an alternative to surfing particulary if it is flat. Truly wild camping is possible up in the mountains among the rivers and forests. Epic mountain biking, scenic walks and a healthy dose of nature are all on offer.
Not forgetting the amazing des supermarche, le vin rouge, le fromage and other culinary delights. Where else in the world do bakery’s and supermarkets shut for lunch? You have to love a country with a two hour lunch break and a thirty five hour working week!
But alas there will be no euro road trip for us this summer as we have spent all our money buying a Cornish cottage and will be spending our September break renovating, so here we are dreaming of an Indian Summer...

Photo by Alexa Poppe http://artbyalexapoppe.blogspot.com/

Living The Dream, On Credit

This is my most recent contribution to Drift Magazine. It is Johnny Abegg's story of living his dream of becoming a pro surfer. He spent three years on the WQS with no financial backing, only four credit cards to support himself. He racked up a huge debt and made a film about his experience called 'On Credit'. In the process of making the film, he goes through a life changing experience. Today he has ditched the his previous single minded ambitions for a more creative approach to life. Making the film lead him to career in media whilst he works on other artistic projects through his blog. Check out the full story and interview at:

http://www.driftsurfing.eu/surf_article.asp?ID=1824.