Surfing Baler, Philippines

We have been hanging out at the Little Girls Surfers Lodge in Baler for a week now. We have had some fun little waves on the beach and even a few barrels on the reef at the end of the bay. We are planning though to do an outer island trip, where there should be more swell and a great left point. Been spending a lot of time working on a story about the local surf scene here for Huck Magazine and have met some great people. The swell is going to pick up in a couple of days and should be pretty epic.

The proprietor of the Little Girls Surfers Lodge is Donnie, an expat American surfer who has moved out here to escape the crowds and commercialism of California. Naming his lodge after his cute Little girls, this really is a great place to stay and Donnie can hook you up with the info to get good waves. If you head this way check him out on Sabang Beach, just after the Bays Inn.

Travelling Through Time and Space

At times travelling can feel like moving though space and time which in reality you are when crossing multiple time zones. Travelling at night can be particularly surreal to the senses as well.

We travelled four hours by van to Heathrow, twenty hours by plane to Manila, then one hour local flight to the coast and finally arrived in our first destination of Pagudpud, where we found it to be flat, Do!

The area we explored was remote, secluded and beautiful. It had great potential for surf but only during typhoons in the summer. So we headed south and found an amazing point setup but far too windy. Eventually we ended up at the winter surf capital of San Juan and scored some fun beach and point waves. Unusual weather patterns has left the normally consistent west coast of Luzon, with a distinct lack of waves.

So we have headed over to Baler where Apocalypse Now was filmed. The surf here is a mixture of fun beaches and heavy, hollow reef breaks. The surf is starting to look good and the story we are looking for is coming together.

The people of the Philippines are the most friendly we have ever encountered and really laid back. It is really amazing scenery and Baler is a tropical paradise. Its a lot like Hawaii but with out the development.

More stories to come...

Colors

Colors of Coincidence is a monograph of Wolfgang Bloch's art, designed by David Carson and with text by Mike Stice. Expectations are always going to be high since David Carson and Wolfgang Bloch are two of the most influential creative's around.

Combining a simplistic approach and a sober palette Wolfgang Bloch has rose to be one of the most celebrated of surfing's artists. His imagination and uncanny eye for seeing waves in places most do has lead to him incorporating many media's into his paintings including wood, magazines or newspaper and even a cut in half surfboard. Bloch's artwork has captivated surfers and none surfers alike with his austere paintings that are imbued with the intensity of his Latin roots. The paintings are a culmination of his experiences as a surfer and artist combined with the unpretentious and rustic life of South America, which beget his life as an artist. Moving away from what typifies surf art; his raw and ethereal paintings can cause you to question, would I surf that?

The book contains personnel photographs by himself, some of his best paintings and his story as an artist brought to life in words by Mike Stice. From growing up in Ecuador to working as a graphic designer for some of the biggest surf companies the story follows Bloch's journey.

If you cannot afford your own collection of these paintings but would like to explore Bloch's life and works then this book will not disappoint and is much more that your average coffee table book.

Glide...

Why bodyboard when you can paipo gliiiiiiiide...
paipoglide.com

Hydrodynamics

Whilst surfing at Watergate on a small but fun day, a guy on the longest, widest and thickest longboard I had ever seen proceeded to catch every wave he could and go straight. Each to their own, I thought. Then after the surf, whilst he stood on the beach checking someone out with a Mini Simmons he turns to me as I walk past and says, "That thing will never turn". Hmm, maybe he should watch this clip http://hydrodynamica.blogspot.com/2009/11/max-trax-vs-wolfie.html.

Surf Jumble

A Winter Wonderland

Something I wrote for Drift last month.

September sessions here in Cornwall are normally the best of the year but this year the surf was dire. Just when it seemed like it was going to be one of the worst Autumns I can remember, October turned up with the goods. The last three weeks has seen some epic sessions go down. From tow-in barrel seeking sessions in giant waves at Fistral to shoulder high peelers perfect for longboarding- there has been something for everyone. Many classic spots that lie dormant for much of the year have been working but with the mandatory crowd, if you keep your eyes open quiet sessions are found.

After three weeks of great waves, usual transmission has resumed. Howling westerly gales are forecast for the next week, the balmy late autumn temps are fading away and the dark nights have drawn in. Therefore, it looks like its time to batten down the hatches for winter. The changing seasons are a facet of nature as it evolves throughout the year so embracing it can help you to bond with and enjoy the environment around you. Winter offers you the chance to surf spots you can't the rest of the year (many of which are quality waves), spend stormy days seeking out that elusive spot you always heard about followed with a pint by an open fire, enjoy the lower crowd pressure and open space on land as well as in the water, expand your quiver to surf winters more powerful swells plus the dark nights can give you more time to work on projects or other interests you have and most importantly time to plan those winter trips. Whilst there are many positives from wintering in Cornwall I'll still be jetting off to the Philippines but only for a month- don't want to miss too many of those winter swells.